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#81 Where do you find your inspiration comes from?

Posted by Ashish92 on 10 December 2013 - 10:19 AM

Inspiration in my opinion comes when we come across something that clears our mind and soothes our feelings. 

Being a designer and having a hectic schedule I often find my mind too cluttered with ideas and it often happens that due to time constraints I need to find something that makes me feel good and inspires me in a short time. Fortunately I have a open roof in my house where we have a small garden planted by my mother and father. Whenever I feel short on inspiration or confused I just go out into the gardens, stay there quietly for half and hour or more watching the trees and just being there silently in nature's arms and soon I find myself getting inspired to get a move on. 


I believe our inspiration comes from something that makes us happy, when it comes to photography whenever I see something be it a nature related or any random thing that makes me happy I try to capture that very moment itself. 



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#67 Embedding Instagram Images

Posted by Photographa on 02 December 2013 - 04:02 PM

Many of us use Instagram, so I'd like to show you all a way to share Instagram photos on our forum.


All you need to do is find the public share URL of a photo (you can do this from your phone or from Instagram.com) and embed it in media tags like below. 


The result is:


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#236 Graphics Tablet

Posted by fantanoice on 28 December 2013 - 11:07 PM

These great machines allows you to edit your photography on the computer using Adobe Photoshop. They allow editing whether it be taking out the background and adding a black n white themed effect.


Personally I find them a very useful tool and defiantly any photographer should have without a doubt, as they are becoming far more accessible as the price becomes lower.


Well, that's not exactly what they do. They basically replace your computer's mouse with something shaped like a pen and paper, making it simpler to do artist work on the computer for people who prefer traditional methods.


My parents gave me one in my early teenage years but I was an idiot at the time and it got broken somehow (don't remember how). What sucks is that I now want one so that I can do proper illustrations and stuff on the computer because I love drawing freehand (basically the only way I can draw).


As for editing photos, I probably wouldn't use one for that. I'm too used to using my mouse!



I wonder if the iPad will replace traditional graphics tablets in the future. There's already lots of iPad-made art out there, and just recently I remember reading about new styluses coming out that would make it even easier to draw on an iPad.


Not yet, the iPad screens aren't sensitive or precise enough to replace a Wacom / graphics tablet. However, the Samsung Galaxy Note phones and I *think* the Samsung Galaxy Tabs both use Wacom screens, so they are effectively graphics tablets themselves.

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#134 Light Painting Procedure

Posted by Photographa on 21 December 2013 - 03:52 PM

Painting with light basically describes the process of using a long shutter speed and controlled lighting to create artistic blur.


When the camera shutter is open, the sensor on your camera collects light. When it's dark, the shutter can stay open for longer so that it can collect more light from the environment and produce a brighter, more detailed photo.


If you're in a dark street, you can set the camera on something stable (a tripod works best) and take a photo of a subject with a light source using a slow shutter (the shutter will stay open for longer), and if the subject moves the light source (a flashlight or sparkler works well), the light source will appear to blur (it'll look like a line of light in the photo).


For creative light-painting photos, you'll want a shutter that can stay open at least 3-5 seconds (if you want a group to write or draw something). You can go above or below this as you wish. When you've found a good shutter speed that works for whatever you're trying to draw, you can adjust your aperture and ISO to allow your photo to be decently exposed.


I'd recommend an ISO of 200 - 400 for light painting photographs. This will reduce noise in the photo and can give you enough brightness.


Your aperture will vary based on how bright your scene is and how long you want to keep the shutter open. A constricted aperture will allow your shutter to be open for longer periods of time (and in brighter areas), but if you want a quick drawing with a faster shutter, or if you're in a darker area, you can open up the aperture a bit.


Anything that light shines on will show up in your photo. If you have something backlit in the background (such as city lights) and a person who isn't lit walks in front of the lights and then steps away the photo will seem as if the person never walked there. If you have a group of people with flashlights pointed in the direction of the camera, and if they're not lit up, they won't be visible in the photo, but the flashlight light will be.


If you'd like to have your light artists visible in your photo, but you don't want them blurred, you can keep them as dark as possible (and moving quickly if there's light in the background), and you can fire a quick flash at the end of your shot to expose them without blurring them. (Background lights will also be visible well if you do this.)


Play around with it and see what you can do!

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#12 Manual Photography Guide for Beginners

Posted by Photographa on 15 November 2013 - 03:42 PM

Fully manual photography opens up an exciting world of creativity. This concise guide will teach you the basics from which you can build on for remarkable photos in specific scenes.


The most critical concept to understand is how photos can be affected by light. There are three adjustments you can make to adjust how light enters and is processed by your camera-


ISO adjusts your camera’s light sensitivity.

A more sensitive sensor (or film) can capture more light faster (a bright picture can be taken in less time), but a more sensitive sensor also produces more unwanted grain. A less sensitive sensor produces clearer pictures but needs a bigger aperture or slower shutter to produce the same picture, since more light needs to hit the camera sensor for the same result. Light sensitivity increases as the ISO number increases.


Aperture adjusts the amount light entering camera.

The aperture is the opening on your lens which controls the amount of light entering the lens and hitting the sensor. A larger aperture opening allows more light to enter, allowing for a faster shutter speed and/or lower ISO. A smaller aperture opening allows for greater depth-of-field and slower shutter speeds to capture motion blur.


Shutter Speed adjusts exposure time

The shutter speed is the amount of time that light is allowed to strike the camera sensor for a certain photo. Fast shutter speeds can capture an instant in time, whereas slower shutter speeds can be used for creative motion blur.


So how does it all come together?


When you enter the world of manual photography, you open up your creativity by controlling the settings you want. Most cameras will let you shoot in four different manual [exposure] modes: P (Programmed Auto), A (Aperture Priority), S (Shutter Priority), and M (Full Manual).


Programmed Auto is a nearly-automatic mode to photograph with. The camera chooses your shutter speed and aperture for you (and shows you which settings it chose so you can learn from it), and allows you to set your ISO and exposure compensation. Exposure compensation can be set with (+/-) buttons on your camera and is used to make photos brighter or darker by changing the aperture and shutter speed – pay attention to how your camera changes aperture and shutter speed change to create brighter and dimmer photos and you’ll be on your way to learning full manual.


Aperture Priority is an exposure mode which allows you to choose your own aperture and ISO and allow the camera to select a shutter speed for you. This is a fantastic mode to use when trying to be creative with depth of field; a larger aperture opening creates a more shallow depth of field, and a smaller aperture opening creates a larger depth of field. Keep in mind that a smaller aperture will need a slower shutter to get the same amount of light to the sensor, and remember that lower numbers (f/2.8, f/4) are larger openings than higher fractions with higher denominators (f/16).


Shutter Priority is an exposure mode which allows you to choose your own shutter speed and ISO and allow the camera to select an aperture for you. This mode is great when switching between shots where you want to freeze time and shots where you need motion blur. Depth of field will vary in these photos since the aperture will be set dynamically depending on the shutter speed and light conditions.

ISO can be set manually or left up to the camera to set in a certain range in any of these modes. A higher ISO will increase the sensitivity of the sensor, which means that a photo can be taken faster, but will also include more grain. ISO varies greatly depending on the type of shot you’re trying to take, but a general starting point would be 100 on a sunny day, 200 on a cloudy day, 400 when indoors during the day, and 800 when indoors with lights on. Always experiment before choosing an ISO for a shoot, and remember that the lower you go, the clearer your pictures, but you risk getting dim or blurry shots if not enough light reaches the sensor.


In full manual mode, you choose your shutter speed, aperture, and ISO settings.

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#93 Best way to print photo's

Posted by Ashish92 on 13 December 2013 - 10:04 AM

As far as my experience with digital images goes the best printers for this task are the picture only printers that are designed specifically for this purpose only. 

However that category of printers in very expensive and practically useless for other printing tasks. 


If you want a printer to be able to print photos (though not as HQ as picture only printer) and as well as print other documents too then go for a Inkjet printer, they are slower than laser but are better equipped for the task. 


And if it is a photo then it has to be a picture paper because no normal paper can replicate the glossiness and innate shine of a picture paper which is the USP of many photos.


Choosing a good company for printer I would suggest you go with Epson or HP they are the best out there. And as far as my experience goes the more we invest in the better the quality of our photo. 


Also you can try playing a little with the curves and levels of the photo before printing it as most professionals do this trick to make the lighting of the photo suitable for focus. 

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#88 Where do you find your inspiration comes from?

Posted by Ashish92 on 13 December 2013 - 09:32 AM

One more thing that I would like to add is that sometimes our inspiration is instinctive to us. Like we may be totally busy with some other work and while we are going good at it and upto our own expectation suddenly if we switch to something that is a hobby to us we will find unexpected results that can often make us think that how good we can be.


The thing that I believe is that we need to be happy, and in clear mind to be inspired. Inspiring us ourselves is an art that I believe every artist should master to make piece with their own volatile mind. 

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#72 Photography Christmas Gifts

Posted by Amy on 08 December 2013 - 09:32 AM

I think an Apple Time Capsule or AirPort Extreme with a USB hard drive would make an excellent gift. It basically creates a shared network drive that you can access from any computer on the network.


Solid state storage is still limited in capacity on newer laptops and it's an extra step to always plug in a drive to work on photos, and the Time Capsule / AirPort Express takes care of those problems.

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#48 Where do you find your inspiration comes from?

Posted by Shortie861 on 18 November 2013 - 06:56 AM

When taking photographs it is always great to have some kind of inspiration from something, maybe something you have a great interest in or something else that gives you the incentive to want to take photographs of that specific thing.


I myself have always been interested in anything to do with nature or the weather, especially autumn scenes with the colours and even wintery scenes with the snow and ice, especially icicles. These are things that we only see around once a year and they never last too long so it's always nice to be able to capture them when they are there so you have them as photo's.

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#425 Tripod for iPad

Posted by Sharon on 12 March 2014 - 12:10 AM

There are a lot of options when you search "iPad Tripod Mount" on Amazon, but I think this one looks cool.


You could connect your iPad to a DSLR on a tripod with the app Trigger Trap and do a time lapse like that!



This looks like to be an excellent solution for what you are trying to do.  With 42 reviewers a score of 4 out 5 stars is pretty awesome.  Even for the most helpful critical review...they were just describing how insecure they felt about the plastic holder.  No where in their review did they state that it actually broke.  Even with that they rated the product 3 out 5 so I think it's a great solution especially for $25.  It's hard to find a reliable regular tripod for that price nowadays. 

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#367 Class 10 SD Cards - SanDisk Extreme vs. Transcend

Posted by Photographa on 20 January 2014 - 03:29 PM

What exactly does "Class 10" mean? I am really familiar with most computer accessories and equipment, but I've never heard of something like that before. Does it mean that it reads and writes data faster? If so, I may need to invest in one!


Yep! The class of a memory card tells you what it's rated for - A class 2 will do 2 MB/s, a class 6 will do 6 MB/s, and a Class 10 will do 10 MB/s.


A faster memory card helps a ton with continuous shooting because when the buffer on your camera is full the bottleneck becomes how fast that photo can be written from the buffer to the memory card. A faster memory card is also necessary for HD video shooting.


Many of the most popular ones nowadays are rated Class 10, but that doesn't mean that they're all the same performance-wise. With SanDisk, their Ultra line is the most popular, the Extreme line is a little pricier and "better", and the Extreme Pro line is the best memory cards they offer.

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#351 First Software?

Posted by Collin on 17 January 2014 - 09:38 PM

I actually started with PhotoShop. It gets pretty easy to get used to, once you play around with it. I am not an expert at it, but its great skills that you could implement in the future. I tried using GIMP, but it looked to complicated, and it wasn't very user-friendly for me. PhotoShop generally will run slower on older computers, just because of the real-time memory the program is using the entire time; constantly updating your changes as graphics, and performing periodic autosaves. I have PhotoShop Elements, and that has worked for me pretty much so far. :)

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#332 Photoshop Layers

Posted by Phos on 15 January 2014 - 08:34 PM

I normally have at least four or five layers in Photoshop of the same item. It honestly depends on what I'm working on though, since some projects are fairly short while others may take quite a bit longer.


My quick Photoshop ventures usually include adding a bit of depth or contrast to an image, so I'll have three or four layers that I work on, each using a different method of editing. Some I'll overlay, some I'll stylize, and so on. Many times I use the simple technique of cropping the object or person of the image, creating a new layer for that, and then filtering the background a bit to bring the subject to the foreground of the image. Most of my ventures, actually, tend to be really simple but effective.

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#325 Member Introduction Thread

Posted by Eclipse on 14 January 2014 - 08:08 PM

Hello, the name is Eclipse. You might notice me around the internet because I do join many forums :) I've been a webmaster for a total of 5 years, starting off with Forumotion and making my way to Paid Hosting and Paid Software.


When I'm offline, I enjoy watching movies, especially with friends. I just watched "Lone Survivor" tonight and loved it. I usually play Basketball and Video Games when I'm not on the internet lurking around on forums.


That's basically all I can say, I'm not an interesting type of person :P

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#287 Smartphones are killing camera companies

Posted by LividLegends on 05 January 2014 - 10:00 AM

I think that smartphones are capable of taking decent shots, and taking them quickly and easily. The majority of people don't feel the need of carrying around a point-and-shoot camera when they have their iPhone which can take pictures almost just as well. However, I do believe with the progression of cameras in smartphones, soon they will wash away any need for an average point and shoot.

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#238 Some of my Photo's

Posted by dragonborn99 on 28 December 2013 - 11:19 PM

Whilst I was at a local park, I took some pictures with my camera, they aren't the best but oh well.










These were all taken from me and no one else. :D To see some more pictures, you can go to my photography blog post if you want (URL in my profile).


Thanks, please comment!

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#210 Where do you find your inspiration comes from?

Posted by lorcan on 28 December 2013 - 02:11 PM

I like taking pictures of nature animals or people, and then inspiration then comes from inside me. So for example if I am feeling sad I might take a picture of a homeless person huddled in a doorway and then I would use a grey background to increase the awareness  of the mood. Or if I am feeling love, I would look for beautiful skies, and sunsets or sun coming up.

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#204 Are smartphone cameras powerful?

Posted by Photographa on 28 December 2013 - 11:26 AM

Excellent question.


There's actually a lot more that goes into taking a good photo than megapixels. Megapixels only determine the resolution (size) of the photo, but there's no use to a large photo if it's blurry and noisy.


I'm assuming that your old camera is blurry and noisy. This is because it tries to cram 12 megapixels into a [probably] small sensor, so each individual pixel is tiny and can't get a lot of light. To compensate for that, the camera increases the ISO (the sensitivity to light), which increases brightness but it introduces noise.


The iPhone 5S introduced a larger sensor than the iPhone 5, but it kept the megapixels at 8. This means that each pixel can be larger, which means it'll collect more light. The sensitivity of the sensor doesn't have to be as high, so a lower ISO can be used, which reduces noise.


The iPhone 5S also uses an f/2.2 aperture. The aperture is the size of the opening between the lens and the sensor. A f/2.2 is very large, which means a lot of light can enter the camera and hit the sensor. This means that the shutter can open and close very fast and still collect all the light it needs. Older cameras will have smaller aperture openings, and they'll need to keep that shutter open for longer. The problem with holding the shutter open for a long time when you're hand-holding a camera is that even the slightest shake will introduce blur.


Getting a good photo is about a lot more than megapixels, and this is why you see photographers spending 3x more on their lenses than on their camera body. Megapixels relate to the size of an image, but almost nobody needs images the size of a billboard. We value photo clarity much more than size. Megapixels are just a good marketing term (which is why Samsung packed 12 of them into a tiny sensor on the Galaxy S4).

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#186 What's HDR?

Posted by Photographa on 27 December 2013 - 12:27 PM

When does one want to use HDR, and when should one opt for leaving HDR off?


When a camera has an HDR mode (a notable example is smartphones) it's helpful to turn it on if you're photographing something that doesn't move. Your camera will take multiple photos with different exposures very quickly and combine them into one picture. A group photo or landscapes/items/food can turn out better with HDR.


If you're photographing something that is moving, like a car, or kids running around, you'll want to turn HDR off because you want to freeze that motion.

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#145 Tethering a camera to an iPad

Posted by Photographa on 23 December 2013 - 12:43 AM

Apple's Camera Connection kit allows you to load photos from your camera to the iPad over USB, but you won't be able to snap photos and have them instantly appear on the iPad. For most DSLRs, the camera won't be able to shoot when it's in USB mode.


What you could do is use an app like teamviewer to hook your iPad up to your computer, and use software like Aperture on your Mac to set up a tethered shoot with your camera. You'll need to have that Mac wired to the camera (so it's not an idea solution if you want to be all wireless), and you'll need to have a wireless internet connection, but you'll achieve the goal of having a wireless iPad that can trigger a photo to be snapped and instantly get that photo full screen onto your iPad (at least show within the TeamViewer app on your iPad) where you can make adjustments.


If you needed an easy way to get those photos on the actual iPad for sharing, you could set up Aperture to automatically store the photos in a DropBox or Google Drive folder. Snap photos in TeamViewer through Aperture running on your Mac, then switch to the Dropbox app to download those photos and share.

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