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#81 Where do you find your inspiration comes from?

Posted by Ashish92 on 10 December 2013 - 10:19 AM

Inspiration in my opinion comes when we come across something that clears our mind and soothes our feelings. 

Being a designer and having a hectic schedule I often find my mind too cluttered with ideas and it often happens that due to time constraints I need to find something that makes me feel good and inspires me in a short time. Fortunately I have a open roof in my house where we have a small garden planted by my mother and father. Whenever I feel short on inspiration or confused I just go out into the gardens, stay there quietly for half and hour or more watching the trees and just being there silently in nature's arms and soon I find myself getting inspired to get a move on. 


I believe our inspiration comes from something that makes us happy, when it comes to photography whenever I see something be it a nature related or any random thing that makes me happy I try to capture that very moment itself. 



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#67 Embedding Instagram Images

Posted by Photographa on 02 December 2013 - 04:02 PM

Many of us use Instagram, so I'd like to show you all a way to share Instagram photos on our forum.


All you need to do is find the public share URL of a photo (you can do this from your phone or from Instagram.com) and embed it in media tags like below. 


The result is:


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#236 Graphics Tablet

Posted by fantanoice on 28 December 2013 - 11:07 PM

These great machines allows you to edit your photography on the computer using Adobe Photoshop. They allow editing whether it be taking out the background and adding a black n white themed effect.


Personally I find them a very useful tool and defiantly any photographer should have without a doubt, as they are becoming far more accessible as the price becomes lower.


Well, that's not exactly what they do. They basically replace your computer's mouse with something shaped like a pen and paper, making it simpler to do artist work on the computer for people who prefer traditional methods.


My parents gave me one in my early teenage years but I was an idiot at the time and it got broken somehow (don't remember how). What sucks is that I now want one so that I can do proper illustrations and stuff on the computer because I love drawing freehand (basically the only way I can draw).


As for editing photos, I probably wouldn't use one for that. I'm too used to using my mouse!



I wonder if the iPad will replace traditional graphics tablets in the future. There's already lots of iPad-made art out there, and just recently I remember reading about new styluses coming out that would make it even easier to draw on an iPad.


Not yet, the iPad screens aren't sensitive or precise enough to replace a Wacom / graphics tablet. However, the Samsung Galaxy Note phones and I *think* the Samsung Galaxy Tabs both use Wacom screens, so they are effectively graphics tablets themselves.

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#134 Light Painting Procedure

Posted by Photographa on 21 December 2013 - 03:52 PM

Painting with light basically describes the process of using a long shutter speed and controlled lighting to create artistic blur.


When the camera shutter is open, the sensor on your camera collects light. When it's dark, the shutter can stay open for longer so that it can collect more light from the environment and produce a brighter, more detailed photo.


If you're in a dark street, you can set the camera on something stable (a tripod works best) and take a photo of a subject with a light source using a slow shutter (the shutter will stay open for longer), and if the subject moves the light source (a flashlight or sparkler works well), the light source will appear to blur (it'll look like a line of light in the photo).


For creative light-painting photos, you'll want a shutter that can stay open at least 3-5 seconds (if you want a group to write or draw something). You can go above or below this as you wish. When you've found a good shutter speed that works for whatever you're trying to draw, you can adjust your aperture and ISO to allow your photo to be decently exposed.


I'd recommend an ISO of 200 - 400 for light painting photographs. This will reduce noise in the photo and can give you enough brightness.


Your aperture will vary based on how bright your scene is and how long you want to keep the shutter open. A constricted aperture will allow your shutter to be open for longer periods of time (and in brighter areas), but if you want a quick drawing with a faster shutter, or if you're in a darker area, you can open up the aperture a bit.


Anything that light shines on will show up in your photo. If you have something backlit in the background (such as city lights) and a person who isn't lit walks in front of the lights and then steps away the photo will seem as if the person never walked there. If you have a group of people with flashlights pointed in the direction of the camera, and if they're not lit up, they won't be visible in the photo, but the flashlight light will be.


If you'd like to have your light artists visible in your photo, but you don't want them blurred, you can keep them as dark as possible (and moving quickly if there's light in the background), and you can fire a quick flash at the end of your shot to expose them without blurring them. (Background lights will also be visible well if you do this.)


Play around with it and see what you can do!

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#12 Manual Photography Guide for Beginners

Posted by Photographa on 15 November 2013 - 03:42 PM

Fully manual photography opens up an exciting world of creativity. This concise guide will teach you the basics from which you can build on for remarkable photos in specific scenes.


The most critical concept to understand is how photos can be affected by light. There are three adjustments you can make to adjust how light enters and is processed by your camera-


ISO adjusts your camera’s light sensitivity.

A more sensitive sensor (or film) can capture more light faster (a bright picture can be taken in less time), but a more sensitive sensor also produces more unwanted grain. A less sensitive sensor produces clearer pictures but needs a bigger aperture or slower shutter to produce the same picture, since more light needs to hit the camera sensor for the same result. Light sensitivity increases as the ISO number increases.


Aperture adjusts the amount light entering camera.

The aperture is the opening on your lens which controls the amount of light entering the lens and hitting the sensor. A larger aperture opening allows more light to enter, allowing for a faster shutter speed and/or lower ISO. A smaller aperture opening allows for greater depth-of-field and slower shutter speeds to capture motion blur.


Shutter Speed adjusts exposure time

The shutter speed is the amount of time that light is allowed to strike the camera sensor for a certain photo. Fast shutter speeds can capture an instant in time, whereas slower shutter speeds can be used for creative motion blur.


So how does it all come together?


When you enter the world of manual photography, you open up your creativity by controlling the settings you want. Most cameras will let you shoot in four different manual [exposure] modes: P (Programmed Auto), A (Aperture Priority), S (Shutter Priority), and M (Full Manual).


Programmed Auto is a nearly-automatic mode to photograph with. The camera chooses your shutter speed and aperture for you (and shows you which settings it chose so you can learn from it), and allows you to set your ISO and exposure compensation. Exposure compensation can be set with (+/-) buttons on your camera and is used to make photos brighter or darker by changing the aperture and shutter speed – pay attention to how your camera changes aperture and shutter speed change to create brighter and dimmer photos and you’ll be on your way to learning full manual.


Aperture Priority is an exposure mode which allows you to choose your own aperture and ISO and allow the camera to select a shutter speed for you. This is a fantastic mode to use when trying to be creative with depth of field; a larger aperture opening creates a more shallow depth of field, and a smaller aperture opening creates a larger depth of field. Keep in mind that a smaller aperture will need a slower shutter to get the same amount of light to the sensor, and remember that lower numbers (f/2.8, f/4) are larger openings than higher fractions with higher denominators (f/16).


Shutter Priority is an exposure mode which allows you to choose your own shutter speed and ISO and allow the camera to select an aperture for you. This mode is great when switching between shots where you want to freeze time and shots where you need motion blur. Depth of field will vary in these photos since the aperture will be set dynamically depending on the shutter speed and light conditions.

ISO can be set manually or left up to the camera to set in a certain range in any of these modes. A higher ISO will increase the sensitivity of the sensor, which means that a photo can be taken faster, but will also include more grain. ISO varies greatly depending on the type of shot you’re trying to take, but a general starting point would be 100 on a sunny day, 200 on a cloudy day, 400 when indoors during the day, and 800 when indoors with lights on. Always experiment before choosing an ISO for a shoot, and remember that the lower you go, the clearer your pictures, but you risk getting dim or blurry shots if not enough light reaches the sensor.


In full manual mode, you choose your shutter speed, aperture, and ISO settings.

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#451 Canon EOS Rebel SL1

Posted by Sharon on 12 March 2014 - 01:01 PM

Photography is a hobby that I want to have as a "serious" hobby.  I want to be that person that friends and family go to and ask if I can go to their event because they trust I take great photos but won't charge them an arm and a leg.  But more so than anything I want to be that photographer that takes certain pictures and people just naturally go "oooh that's a nice shot!"  I get that reaction now with my photos with my Point-and-shoot Samsung WB150F but I want to take my hobby to another level.  


I've been reading reviews on the Canon EOS Rebel SL1 and it's gotten some really great reviews from users. My worry is I have never owned a DSLR camera before so I've nothing to compare it to really.  I hear that it's the lightest DSLR camera in the market right now which is a huge plus.  My brother has a different Canon camera, I never took note of its model but I remember taking pictures for him for my nephew's Christening and I had the camera for less than 20 minutes and my arms were exhausted! =)


What do you guys think of the Canon EOS Rebel SL1?  Would you recommend anything else?

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#425 Tripod for iPad

Posted by Sharon on 12 March 2014 - 12:10 AM

There are a lot of options when you search "iPad Tripod Mount" on Amazon, but I think this one looks cool.


You could connect your iPad to a DSLR on a tripod with the app Trigger Trap and do a time lapse like that!



This looks like to be an excellent solution for what you are trying to do.  With 42 reviewers a score of 4 out 5 stars is pretty awesome.  Even for the most helpful critical review...they were just describing how insecure they felt about the plastic holder.  No where in their review did they state that it actually broke.  Even with that they rated the product 3 out 5 so I think it's a great solution especially for $25.  It's hard to find a reliable regular tripod for that price nowadays. 

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#367 Class 10 SD Cards - SanDisk Extreme vs. Transcend

Posted by Photographa on 20 January 2014 - 03:29 PM

What exactly does "Class 10" mean? I am really familiar with most computer accessories and equipment, but I've never heard of something like that before. Does it mean that it reads and writes data faster? If so, I may need to invest in one!


Yep! The class of a memory card tells you what it's rated for - A class 2 will do 2 MB/s, a class 6 will do 6 MB/s, and a Class 10 will do 10 MB/s.


A faster memory card helps a ton with continuous shooting because when the buffer on your camera is full the bottleneck becomes how fast that photo can be written from the buffer to the memory card. A faster memory card is also necessary for HD video shooting.


Many of the most popular ones nowadays are rated Class 10, but that doesn't mean that they're all the same performance-wise. With SanDisk, their Ultra line is the most popular, the Extreme line is a little pricier and "better", and the Extreme Pro line is the best memory cards they offer.

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#355 Favorite Photography Apps

Posted by Collin on 17 January 2014 - 10:00 PM

I've seen this one for Android, but I can't think of the name. It turns your camera into a professional DSLR camera by letting you set the exposure settings, lighting, focus points, and more. I don't have it installed any more, but hopefully I can find it. ;)


Let me know if you guys see any good camera apps out there; I know there are many.

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#354 Class 10 SD Cards - SanDisk Extreme vs. Transcend

Posted by Collin on 17 January 2014 - 09:57 PM

What exactly does "Class 10" mean? I am really familiar with most computer accessories and equipment, but I've never heard of something like that before. Does it mean that it reads and writes data faster? If so, I may need to invest in one!


I think that I have a SanDisk Ultra laying around somewhere, but I don't really know the difference between an Ultra and an Extreme (except for the fact that one sounds cooler ;) )


Should I get a SanDisk Extreme?

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#351 First Software?

Posted by Collin on 17 January 2014 - 09:38 PM

I actually started with PhotoShop. It gets pretty easy to get used to, once you play around with it. I am not an expert at it, but its great skills that you could implement in the future. I tried using GIMP, but it looked to complicated, and it wasn't very user-friendly for me. PhotoShop generally will run slower on older computers, just because of the real-time memory the program is using the entire time; constantly updating your changes as graphics, and performing periodic autosaves. I have PhotoShop Elements, and that has worked for me pretty much so far. :)

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#338 First Software?

Posted by Daisy on 16 January 2014 - 12:57 PM

I started with GIMP about a year ago. I didn't see the point of spending money on Photoshop, although it looks a little better, when GIMP works just as well for what I need to do.

It runs pretty well on my computer. Usually, anyone I know with Photoshop says that it runs slowly on older computers. The portable version is also useful if you're using someone else's computer.


GIMP can do almost everything Photoshop can do - and for free. But I might buy Photoshop one day, it looks useful and I'd like to have a try with it now I'm used to photo editing on GIMP.

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#334 Smartphones are killing camera companies

Posted by Phos on 15 January 2014 - 08:38 PM

I can see why smartphones would be killing the low-end point and shoot camera industry. Nearly everyone with the means to have one has one, and they are generally higher resolution than that of those very low-end cameras. Even if the resolution isn't anything fantastic, people that aren't photographers don't need drastically high resolutions anyway.


I do agree, of course, that SLRs are irreplaceable, digital or otherwise. But those that don't take photographs other than for social networking will rarely opt to purchase those. Though there's still a large market for them, of course, because there are many hobbyists and professionals that will always be upgrading their dSLRs.

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#332 Photoshop Layers

Posted by Phos on 15 January 2014 - 08:34 PM

I normally have at least four or five layers in Photoshop of the same item. It honestly depends on what I'm working on though, since some projects are fairly short while others may take quite a bit longer.


My quick Photoshop ventures usually include adding a bit of depth or contrast to an image, so I'll have three or four layers that I work on, each using a different method of editing. Some I'll overlay, some I'll stylize, and so on. Many times I use the simple technique of cropping the object or person of the image, creating a new layer for that, and then filtering the background a bit to bring the subject to the foreground of the image. Most of my ventures, actually, tend to be really simple but effective.

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#331 Site Load Speed

Posted by Phos on 15 January 2014 - 08:29 PM

Page speed is huge for websites -- especially those looking to grow and maintain a large following. According to Google Developer's, "High performance web sites lead to higher visitor engagement, retention and conversions." This statement is true in every way. Having a speedy website keeps your visitors happy and they'll want to return. I'm a big advocate of tailoring a website to its audience, and one good rule of thumb for any audience: ease of use. Page speed is also factored into ease of use, because having a slow website means frustration with browsing.


Optimize, optimize, optimize. If your website is graphic-heavy and you don't want to ruin the aesthetics of it, optimize the images. Use Yahoo!'s smush.it tool, open up photoshop and downscale the resolution (but try to keep the integrity intact), and make use of CSS sprites. Don't have a site that looks fantastic but loads slowly. You'll end up losing those visitors after their first page load (or before).


There are plenty of free tools and plugins online that can help with page speed, so utilize them. If you can't yet afford to move away from shared hosting, opt for caching services such as Cloudflare's free program, or go for MaxCDN and spend an extra $5 a month having your images served across multiple servers world-wide.

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#326 First Software?

Posted by Eclipse on 14 January 2014 - 08:11 PM

When you first began creating graphics, which software did you begin on? We all started somewhere, either with GIMP, Paint, or even straight to Adobe Photoshop.


I for one started on GIMP. I downloaded the software to make a few graphics and really liked it. I was then given Adobe PS CS5.1 for Christmas one year and started using that. To this day I still use PS, It's very unique and easy to use. All it takes is practice and dedicated time for the practice and for learning :)

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#325 Member Introduction Thread

Posted by Eclipse on 14 January 2014 - 08:08 PM

Hello, the name is Eclipse. You might notice me around the internet because I do join many forums :) I've been a webmaster for a total of 5 years, starting off with Forumotion and making my way to Paid Hosting and Paid Software.


When I'm offline, I enjoy watching movies, especially with friends. I just watched "Lone Survivor" tonight and loved it. I usually play Basketball and Video Games when I'm not on the internet lurking around on forums.


That's basically all I can say, I'm not an interesting type of person :P

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#312 Smartphones are killing camera companies

Posted by Matthew on 12 January 2014 - 06:10 PM

I agree that smart phones are beginning to dominate the camera industry. However, I don't feel it's such a terrible thing for the consumer. Unlike before, we have everything we need in one little device as opposed to carrying around an often times bulky camera. I acknowledge the fact it's ruining businesses but those businesses shouldn't have placed all their cards in only one market. Take a look at Sony, if there camera business failed, they'd have TV'a, games, software, and so much more to fall back on.
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#249 Best photo sharing site?

Posted by Photographa on 28 December 2013 - 11:55 PM

Wow, I never knew Google+ was a useful photo-sharing site, I always just saw it as the thing that nobody except me realised was infinity times better than Facebook. However, it might be worth reading through Google's Terms of Service, because its possible that you might be signing your Intellectual Property over them. It's the same reason I don't suggest people use Instagram or Facebook for portfolio work, as they make you sign over ownership of the pictures when you use those applications (it's all on the ToS).


I've heard decent things about Flickr but never used it myself. Never heard of Picasa or 500px so can't really recommend either.


I studied about copyright at my university and it's strange how the law works at times. By using these social media sites you're technically giving them all rights to your photos....except it's not in the way you'd think.


I believe that these ToS that sites use are only to protect them from liability.

  1. If Facebook or Instagram or anyone started using people's photos without their permission, or especially selling work without permission, the PR storm would be massive, and the sites aren't going to be willing to take that hit. The site's won't use your content without expressly asking your permission (and maybe offering to pay you, or at least attributing the work to you) because it's suicide from a public relations standpoint.
  2. Even if a site did this (using your content without permission) the original author could sue the site and say that the terms of service shock the conscience. If a judge decides that the terms hidden away in fine print are "manifestly and grossly unjust" then those terms don't apply. It's like sneaking something ridiculous like "You must give me your first born baby" into some terms of service - it's just weird, and even if you sign them, they won't apply. The way the sites could get around this is if they constantly remind us that they're taking all of our rights when we upload, every single time we upload. Something like this can't be hidden in the ToS.

Social media sites are trying to protect themselves against liabilities, they're not going to take your content.

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#1678 Do I need a battery grip?

Posted by Photographa on 11 May 2014 - 10:52 AM

The battery grip makes is so you don't have to worry about swapping out batteries, this is very useful if you can't afford to miss a second of the action or if the situation makes it impossible to swap out batteries (when I photographed at a color-throwing festival, I had my entire camera wrapped in zip-lock bags with only the front of the lens exposed, and at an event like this with color dust flying everywhere it would be a horrible idea to swap batteries).


A grip also makes it a lot easier to shoot in portrait orientation with the dedicated shutter release and function keys.


If one is photographing a long event, it may make sense to have a charger that simultaneously charges two batteries, so two can be in the grip while two are on the charger, this makes it much more efficient to shoot at long events.


Lastly, battery grips will sometimes come with cartridges to use AA batteries in them instead of rechargeable camera batteries, which gives you more freedom with your power as you could swap a cartridge of camera batteries with a cartridge of AAs.

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