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#81 Where do you find your inspiration comes from?

Posted by Ashish92 on 10 December 2013 - 10:19 AM

Inspiration in my opinion comes when we come across something that clears our mind and soothes our feelings. 

Being a designer and having a hectic schedule I often find my mind too cluttered with ideas and it often happens that due to time constraints I need to find something that makes me feel good and inspires me in a short time. Fortunately I have a open roof in my house where we have a small garden planted by my mother and father. Whenever I feel short on inspiration or confused I just go out into the gardens, stay there quietly for half and hour or more watching the trees and just being there silently in nature's arms and soon I find myself getting inspired to get a move on. 


I believe our inspiration comes from something that makes us happy, when it comes to photography whenever I see something be it a nature related or any random thing that makes me happy I try to capture that very moment itself. 



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#236 Graphics Tablet

Posted by fantanoice on 28 December 2013 - 11:07 PM

These great machines allows you to edit your photography on the computer using Adobe Photoshop. They allow editing whether it be taking out the background and adding a black n white themed effect.


Personally I find them a very useful tool and defiantly any photographer should have without a doubt, as they are becoming far more accessible as the price becomes lower.


Well, that's not exactly what they do. They basically replace your computer's mouse with something shaped like a pen and paper, making it simpler to do artist work on the computer for people who prefer traditional methods.


My parents gave me one in my early teenage years but I was an idiot at the time and it got broken somehow (don't remember how). What sucks is that I now want one so that I can do proper illustrations and stuff on the computer because I love drawing freehand (basically the only way I can draw).


As for editing photos, I probably wouldn't use one for that. I'm too used to using my mouse!



I wonder if the iPad will replace traditional graphics tablets in the future. There's already lots of iPad-made art out there, and just recently I remember reading about new styluses coming out that would make it even easier to draw on an iPad.


Not yet, the iPad screens aren't sensitive or precise enough to replace a Wacom / graphics tablet. However, the Samsung Galaxy Note phones and I *think* the Samsung Galaxy Tabs both use Wacom screens, so they are effectively graphics tablets themselves.

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#134 Light Painting Procedure

Posted by Photographa on 21 December 2013 - 03:52 PM

Painting with light basically describes the process of using a long shutter speed and controlled lighting to create artistic blur.


When the camera shutter is open, the sensor on your camera collects light. When it's dark, the shutter can stay open for longer so that it can collect more light from the environment and produce a brighter, more detailed photo.


If you're in a dark street, you can set the camera on something stable (a tripod works best) and take a photo of a subject with a light source using a slow shutter (the shutter will stay open for longer), and if the subject moves the light source (a flashlight or sparkler works well), the light source will appear to blur (it'll look like a line of light in the photo).


For creative light-painting photos, you'll want a shutter that can stay open at least 3-5 seconds (if you want a group to write or draw something). You can go above or below this as you wish. When you've found a good shutter speed that works for whatever you're trying to draw, you can adjust your aperture and ISO to allow your photo to be decently exposed.


I'd recommend an ISO of 200 - 400 for light painting photographs. This will reduce noise in the photo and can give you enough brightness.


Your aperture will vary based on how bright your scene is and how long you want to keep the shutter open. A constricted aperture will allow your shutter to be open for longer periods of time (and in brighter areas), but if you want a quick drawing with a faster shutter, or if you're in a darker area, you can open up the aperture a bit.


Anything that light shines on will show up in your photo. If you have something backlit in the background (such as city lights) and a person who isn't lit walks in front of the lights and then steps away the photo will seem as if the person never walked there. If you have a group of people with flashlights pointed in the direction of the camera, and if they're not lit up, they won't be visible in the photo, but the flashlight light will be.


If you'd like to have your light artists visible in your photo, but you don't want them blurred, you can keep them as dark as possible (and moving quickly if there's light in the background), and you can fire a quick flash at the end of your shot to expose them without blurring them. (Background lights will also be visible well if you do this.)


Play around with it and see what you can do!

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#12 Manual Photography Guide for Beginners

Posted by Photographa on 15 November 2013 - 03:42 PM

Fully manual photography opens up an exciting world of creativity. This concise guide will teach you the basics from which you can build on for remarkable photos in specific scenes.


The most critical concept to understand is how photos can be affected by light. There are three adjustments you can make to adjust how light enters and is processed by your camera-


ISO adjusts your camera’s light sensitivity.

A more sensitive sensor (or film) can capture more light faster (a bright picture can be taken in less time), but a more sensitive sensor also produces more unwanted grain. A less sensitive sensor produces clearer pictures but needs a bigger aperture or slower shutter to produce the same picture, since more light needs to hit the camera sensor for the same result. Light sensitivity increases as the ISO number increases.


Aperture adjusts the amount light entering camera.

The aperture is the opening on your lens which controls the amount of light entering the lens and hitting the sensor. A larger aperture opening allows more light to enter, allowing for a faster shutter speed and/or lower ISO. A smaller aperture opening allows for greater depth-of-field and slower shutter speeds to capture motion blur.


Shutter Speed adjusts exposure time

The shutter speed is the amount of time that light is allowed to strike the camera sensor for a certain photo. Fast shutter speeds can capture an instant in time, whereas slower shutter speeds can be used for creative motion blur.


So how does it all come together?


When you enter the world of manual photography, you open up your creativity by controlling the settings you want. Most cameras will let you shoot in four different manual [exposure] modes: P (Programmed Auto), A (Aperture Priority), S (Shutter Priority), and M (Full Manual).


Programmed Auto is a nearly-automatic mode to photograph with. The camera chooses your shutter speed and aperture for you (and shows you which settings it chose so you can learn from it), and allows you to set your ISO and exposure compensation. Exposure compensation can be set with (+/-) buttons on your camera and is used to make photos brighter or darker by changing the aperture and shutter speed – pay attention to how your camera changes aperture and shutter speed change to create brighter and dimmer photos and you’ll be on your way to learning full manual.


Aperture Priority is an exposure mode which allows you to choose your own aperture and ISO and allow the camera to select a shutter speed for you. This is a fantastic mode to use when trying to be creative with depth of field; a larger aperture opening creates a more shallow depth of field, and a smaller aperture opening creates a larger depth of field. Keep in mind that a smaller aperture will need a slower shutter to get the same amount of light to the sensor, and remember that lower numbers (f/2.8, f/4) are larger openings than higher fractions with higher denominators (f/16).


Shutter Priority is an exposure mode which allows you to choose your own shutter speed and ISO and allow the camera to select an aperture for you. This mode is great when switching between shots where you want to freeze time and shots where you need motion blur. Depth of field will vary in these photos since the aperture will be set dynamically depending on the shutter speed and light conditions.

ISO can be set manually or left up to the camera to set in a certain range in any of these modes. A higher ISO will increase the sensitivity of the sensor, which means that a photo can be taken faster, but will also include more grain. ISO varies greatly depending on the type of shot you’re trying to take, but a general starting point would be 100 on a sunny day, 200 on a cloudy day, 400 when indoors during the day, and 800 when indoors with lights on. Always experiment before choosing an ISO for a shoot, and remember that the lower you go, the clearer your pictures, but you risk getting dim or blurry shots if not enough light reaches the sensor.


In full manual mode, you choose your shutter speed, aperture, and ISO settings.

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#367 Class 10 SD Cards - SanDisk Extreme vs. Transcend

Posted by Photographa on 20 January 2014 - 03:29 PM

What exactly does "Class 10" mean? I am really familiar with most computer accessories and equipment, but I've never heard of something like that before. Does it mean that it reads and writes data faster? If so, I may need to invest in one!


Yep! The class of a memory card tells you what it's rated for - A class 2 will do 2 MB/s, a class 6 will do 6 MB/s, and a Class 10 will do 10 MB/s.


A faster memory card helps a ton with continuous shooting because when the buffer on your camera is full the bottleneck becomes how fast that photo can be written from the buffer to the memory card. A faster memory card is also necessary for HD video shooting.


Many of the most popular ones nowadays are rated Class 10, but that doesn't mean that they're all the same performance-wise. With SanDisk, their Ultra line is the most popular, the Extreme line is a little pricier and "better", and the Extreme Pro line is the best memory cards they offer.

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#354 Class 10 SD Cards - SanDisk Extreme vs. Transcend

Posted by Collin on 17 January 2014 - 09:57 PM

What exactly does "Class 10" mean? I am really familiar with most computer accessories and equipment, but I've never heard of something like that before. Does it mean that it reads and writes data faster? If so, I may need to invest in one!


I think that I have a SanDisk Ultra laying around somewhere, but I don't really know the difference between an Ultra and an Extreme (except for the fact that one sounds cooler ;) )


Should I get a SanDisk Extreme?

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#331 Site Load Speed

Posted by Phos on 15 January 2014 - 08:29 PM

Page speed is huge for websites -- especially those looking to grow and maintain a large following. According to Google Developer's, "High performance web sites lead to higher visitor engagement, retention and conversions." This statement is true in every way. Having a speedy website keeps your visitors happy and they'll want to return. I'm a big advocate of tailoring a website to its audience, and one good rule of thumb for any audience: ease of use. Page speed is also factored into ease of use, because having a slow website means frustration with browsing.


Optimize, optimize, optimize. If your website is graphic-heavy and you don't want to ruin the aesthetics of it, optimize the images. Use Yahoo!'s smush.it tool, open up photoshop and downscale the resolution (but try to keep the integrity intact), and make use of CSS sprites. Don't have a site that looks fantastic but loads slowly. You'll end up losing those visitors after their first page load (or before).


There are plenty of free tools and plugins online that can help with page speed, so utilize them. If you can't yet afford to move away from shared hosting, opt for caching services such as Cloudflare's free program, or go for MaxCDN and spend an extra $5 a month having your images served across multiple servers world-wide.

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#325 Member Introduction Thread

Posted by Eclipse on 14 January 2014 - 08:08 PM

Hello, the name is Eclipse. You might notice me around the internet because I do join many forums :) I've been a webmaster for a total of 5 years, starting off with Forumotion and making my way to Paid Hosting and Paid Software.


When I'm offline, I enjoy watching movies, especially with friends. I just watched "Lone Survivor" tonight and loved it. I usually play Basketball and Video Games when I'm not on the internet lurking around on forums.


That's basically all I can say, I'm not an interesting type of person :P

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#1678 Do I need a battery grip?

Posted by Photographa on 11 May 2014 - 10:52 AM

The battery grip makes is so you don't have to worry about swapping out batteries, this is very useful if you can't afford to miss a second of the action or if the situation makes it impossible to swap out batteries (when I photographed at a color-throwing festival, I had my entire camera wrapped in zip-lock bags with only the front of the lens exposed, and at an event like this with color dust flying everywhere it would be a horrible idea to swap batteries).


A grip also makes it a lot easier to shoot in portrait orientation with the dedicated shutter release and function keys.


If one is photographing a long event, it may make sense to have a charger that simultaneously charges two batteries, so two can be in the grip while two are on the charger, this makes it much more efficient to shoot at long events.


Lastly, battery grips will sometimes come with cartridges to use AA batteries in them instead of rechargeable camera batteries, which gives you more freedom with your power as you could swap a cartridge of camera batteries with a cartridge of AAs.

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